We arrived in Mexico City with a week to go until el día de los muertos. The day of the dead. Back in a Spanish speaking country, Jerry once again placed all his faith in my limited Spanish, which is probably how we ended up consistently getting dropped off on the wrong side of the street every time we hopped in a taxi. Actually, no. On second thought, that’s nothing to do with my Spanish, I just don’t seem to know my lefts and rights.
We were joined by my aunt and uncle, Julie and Mark, who live in San Diego, but joined us in Mexico for the celebrations. Mexico City is a sprawling, busy city, with a vibrant food and nightlife scene. Legends say that the Aztec god Huitzilopochtli told the Aztecs to find an eagle with a snake in its mouth, while on top of a cactus. Check out the Mexican flag for reference. The Aztecs founded Mexico City on an island in a lake, when they finally found their eagle with a snake in its mouth. Having an enormous city built on a lake comes with some challenges, though. Parts of the city are sinking nearly 50 cm per year, leading to some pretty wonky looking buildings. Apparently the government is going to fix it “ahorita”. This is a form of the word “ahora”, which means now. Ahorita, however, is a vague version of now, which could mean right this very second, or in five minutes, or in this case, maybe five, ten years…
Before our time in South America, I will admit my historical knowledge was a little hazy, with the Aztecs, Mayans, and Incans all blended together into one vague picture. During bus rides, Jerry and I have been listening to the BBC podcast 'you're dead to me', where a historian and a comedian come together to discuss a particular historical period. Between our Incan podcast in Peru, our conquistador podcast on the plane from NYC, and our Aztec podcast en route to Teotihuacan, we are now better equipped to understand the context. It was a good reminder that while we often use the term ancient to describe these civilisations, they actually were both active during the early 1500s.
Alongside our podcasts, we’ve had some of our best walking tours in Mexico. We have joined a lot of tip-based walking tours on our travels. Some of our highlight tours were in Berlin, Bratislava, Tokyo’s Asakusa, Istanbul, and Athens. Mexico City has been added to the list, thanks to our guide Warryor, who had quite the knack for storytelling. He took us to the traditional highlight spots, but also to some more modern locations. From quinceañera dress stores, to old cinemas that have been converted to a porn theatre due to the fact that no one goes to old cinemas anymore (thanks IMax and Netflix), to early ofrenda set ups for the upcoming festivities, we learnt a lot about how Mexico City has grown and changed in modern times as well.
Warryor also gave us some of the best food recommendations, which we took to heart. I think we might have eaten at every single one of his recommended spots, including street taco stalls, a popular Mexican chain restaurant, and a bakery with tables heaped with different breads and pastries. Jerry and I both agreed we’d happily be back, even just for the food scene.
There has been a lot of eating these past two weeks...
We visited Teotihuacan, an Aztec city close to CDMX. Super cool spot, although approximately 100 different stall owners tried to sell Mark obsidian disks and jaguar whistles. At the time, I was not sure why no one tried that hard to sell anything to Jerry and me. However, we received the answer later on in Mexico, when our Chichen Itza guide identified that we still give off “poor student vibes”. This was evidenced by him guessing we were 18, and expressing horror that I must be a child bride, considering I referred to Jerry as my husband. I was quick to reassure him that despite our youthful complexions, we are actually middle aged on the inside.
We also explored more of the artefacts at the Anthropology Museum, where there were no jaguar whistles in sight (actually there were more of them outside the museum. No escape.) I’ll be honest. I think I must have reached my cap for yearly museum visits, as this was an exceptional museum, but all my brain could muster was links to pop culture and movies - see that massive stone carving? Do you think they based the Aztec gold coins from the Pirates of the Caribbean on that?
We proceeded to watch most of the Pirates of the Caribbean series over the rest of our time in Mexico.
While Julie and Mark took the sensible flight option to our next destination, Jerry and I hopped on our final long-haul bus. I can never get sick of trains or planes, but I think I’ve had my fill of buses for a while. As far as buses go, this was a gentle one. Approximately six hours on well-maintained highways, with marigold flower fields stretching out as far as the eye can see. Plus, the bus was playing movies on a big shared screen, so I got to watch a few movies and test my Spanish. I think I followed what was happening in “The Menu”, but that seems like a relatively complex movie, regardless of language. The Mario movie was a lot more straightforward, so thanks Mario and Luigi for that.
Travel days also involve slightly more logistics now, and that is because we have a checked in bag. Yes, we have lost our carry-on traveller status for the rest of the year. Following some shopping in the US, as well as an influx of gifts and souvenirs to bring home, we have made the decision to add a bag. This was the right decision, as our final flights home include bags already, and we therefore only have the one flight to add a bag for. However, we are no longer the sprightly backpack wearers, who waltz off a plane straight past the baggage carousel. We have to take the (gasp) lift in the metro stations to save our weary knees from the stairs. Jerry is particularly rattled by this identity shift, but I have gotten over it relatively quickly, seeing as my souvenir and gift buying has accelerated rapidly thanks to all this new space.
After the agonising final hour on the bus, where the air conditioning failed and the temperature in the bus rose to 27 degrees, we arrived in Oaxaca, pronounced “wa-ha-ka”. Oaxaca was our destination for the day of the dead, as it’s well known as one of the best spots to celebrate the festival. We were almost thwarted, however. Jerry and Julie are two of the best travel researchers I know, but Oaxaca proved tricky when it came to finding accommodation, several months ago. One of the places we booked soon cancelled on us, and there didn’t seem to be many options. The limited accommodation was likely due to Oaxaca being a small destination that surges in popularity during festive periods. There was one night in June, when Jerry and I were in Dubrovnik sweating in our accommodation without air con (happy memories haha), that we stayed up late calling, trying to find a solution to no avail. Luckily for us, when we had nearly accepted that we’d be staying well out of town and commuting in, Julie found a recently cancelled Airbnb close to the action. A few of Jerry’s hairs had turned grey by this point, but we had a solution. As a bonus, it was a wonderful Airbnb!
We began our stay with a trip out to the marigold flower fields, for a chance to wander through the sea of golden orange flowers, before they were all harvested for decorations. Navigating the public bus system is always an adventure in a different country, but we managed to jump on the bus that we were fairly sure would arrive in the right destination. After our bus driver pulled over on the side of the dusty road for our impromptu “bus stop”, we realised we’d arrived just in time, as the fields were already being harvested. We were able to explore the fields of marigolds and terciopelo rojo, while watching families pick and collect their bundles of flowers to take home for their ofrendas.
There were plenty of events going on around town for the week, but we did have to piece them together from different online lists, Instagram posts, and advice from Oaxacan’s around town. Comparsas and muerteadas, which are both festive parades, were a big part of the activities we wanted to participate in. When we were trying to find the first comparsa of the week, we found ourselves on a dark street corner, next to a sketchy hotel. Despite our initial misgivings, the brass band soon arrived, and the music began to play. Shortly later, we were surrounded by catrinas parading and dancing down the street. We weren’t clear on where the comparsas would be, so we asked a local guide where we would find one, only to be received with laughter, and the response, where won’t you? Sure enough, there were dozens of comparsas every night, parading different streets. How on earth are there so many brass bands in Oaxaca?
We heard from our taxi driver that this was the first year that all the regional towns and villages were meeting in Oaxaca for one big mega comparsa. This comparsa was truly mega, and we found various perches on window ledges to watch the different groups parade past. The group of men that were entirely covered in bells were definitely a favourite, as were the group on stilts. We also saw our familiar group from the comparsa the evening before, and cheered loudly as they came past.
There are lots of distinct areas of Oaxaca, each with their own feel. Reforma has a great restaurant selection. Xochimilco is picturesque and peaceful, and Jalatlaco was filled with cafes, trendy shops, and street art. We joined a street art tour to learn about the range of different murals around the area.
STREET ART OF JALATLACO AND XOCHIMILCO
As the week progressed, we saw more decorations spring up around the town. Banners of colourful flags were strung up on the main streets and squares, and every shop and home soon had an ofrenda, decorated with marigold arches, framed photos of loved ones, and various food and drink offerings. Tapetes, or sand carpets, were displayed in the Zocalo square. Stalls popped up for face painting, and it became common to see many people with catrina and catrine makeup wandering around town.
On the hunt for our own alebrijes, or spirit guides, based on the Aztec calendars we found online
Alebrijes 2. Caitlin (deer) 3. Jerry (rabbit?) 4. Mark (monkey) + Julie (turtle)
On the first, we returned to Jalatlaco to join the comparsa there. I was soon distracted chatting with a family from Pueblo, where the uncle was trying to set me up to marry his nephew, or maybe his cousin? He was undeterred by meeting Jerry, as he then figured I must have eligible friends and family in New Zealand who would be interested in marrying this nice man. I therefore missed a lot of the comparsa going past, but not to worry, as we followed two different comparsas home later that evening.
On the final day of celebrating, we took the plunge and had some of the ladies at the roadside stalls paint our faces. As she came towards me with the white paint and began to coat my entire face, I started to wonder if maybe I had made a mistake.
However, this was definitely a “trust the process” moment, as soon, Mark, Julie, and I were all transformed. Jerry did not partake this time, so he was our human companion, like Miguel in Coco. Unfortunately, it was too hot to get him a red hoodie to complete the look!
Later in the evening, we visited a cemetery, as many families gather there to remember loved ones and decorate their graves. Since we went to one of the main cemeteries nearby the city, we weren’t sure whether it would be crowded, and we were mindful of being respectful of the people there. However, it did come as a bit of a surprise when we found an enormous carnival, complete with carnival games, stalls selling marigolds and food, and a ferris wheel, right outside the cemetery. While the decorated graves were beautiful, the four of us decided we’d instead get into the spirit of the celebration, and spend the rest of the evening at home, reminiscing and reflecting on the McElligott family members who have passed away, who we all miss so dearly. To my grandparents, Nanee and Grandee, and my dad, I really hope you did join us in the land of the living for the evening, to share in the snacks, laughter, and tears.
Oaxaca is the home of mole and mezcal. We partook in both, starting with a mole degustation where we tried seven different moles, then chose our favourites to have with our meal.
Mark, Julie, and I also found a mezcal tasting, after eventually discovering that if Google Maps said it was open, it was inevitably closed, but if Google Maps said it was closed…You get the idea. Gul-roo is a family mezcal business, and I went from knowing absolutely nothing about mezcal, to knowing how it is made (demonstration included), and learning about all the different types of mezcal. Yes, we drank 12 different types of mezcal. Our hostess assured us that you cannot get drunk if you drink it slowly and savour it. Well, I did that, but I did also get drunk. Salud!
Sadly, it was then time to say goodbye to Mark and Julie, as they were heading back to San Diego, and we were on our way to Merida. This is definitely not the last trip we’ll have together, as they have exciting plans on the horizon that I am sure we will be unable to resist. We already know we’ll be back together in March next year, to celebrate Julie’s birthday in Bali!
Merida is the capital of the Yucatan peninsula. We originally planned an entire road trip around the Yucatan, but even year-long travellers have to draw the line somewhere. Next time, maybe. We still managed to fit in some adventures while we were in Merida, including a visit to Chichen Itza, one of the new seven wonders of the world.
On the equinox, the sun shines on the Kukulkan pyramid, which gives the appearance that a serpent is descending the pyramid's steps. Sounds pretty magical, which is probably why 15,000 people meet there on the equinox to see it. Seeing as we weren’t there for the equinox, we had to take our guide’s word for it.
However, the Kukulkan pyramid also has some very cool acoustic properties, all year round. It creates the call of the Quetzalcoatl bird when you clap. This also sounds fairly mystical, so we were sceptics initially. However, then we heard it echo back and were amazed. It truly has earned its title as a modern wonder of the world. On the grounds, there is also a court for the Mayan ball game, as seen in ‘the road to el dorado’, if you have seen that movie. It’s like old school basketball, so I’m sure Jerry would be keen, except he might get sacrificed to the gods if he does too well…
Jerry and I also took the chance to swim in a cenote, which are natural sinkholes that the Mayans once believed were entrances to the underworld. The swim was delightfully refreshing in the sticky heat, although the hundreds of fish swimming with us were a slight deterrent. Obviously, they were enough of a deterrent for the others who were also swimming, as Jerry and I had the cenote to ourselves for a while, once everyone had hopped out, preferring to head to the hammocks set up on the other side.
IZAMAL
While we were in Merida, we had a few inescapable reminders of our impending return to Aotearoa. Making arrangements for our house back in Hamilton, beginning the job applications, and starting to make plans to visit friends and family when we arrive back. It’s a bittersweet feeling, as excitement builds to reunite with people we have missed and to set up in our own home together, but also the reality that once we have jobs, Jerry and I won’t have anywhere near the kind of time together that we have had this year. The time we have had, to laugh and joke, to challenge each other’s thoughts, and to reflect on so many moments and memories, has been one of my favourite things about this trip.
We’ve spent the past 24 hours in Houston, as a stopover on our way across the globe. Houston has been characterised by endless waiting at Houston airport. 1.5 hours at immigration was ROUGH, especially since there were only two counters open for all non-US passports, and three international planes had landed. We chased this with a one hour wait for our airport shuttle, which was mostly painful because our motel was only 10 minutes' drive away, but unwalkable thanks to giant highways with no footpaths. We made up for it with some wings and Waffle House.
We’re spending the final two weeks of the trip revisiting Japan. After United cancelled our original route home via LA, Jerry got creative with his searching for a roundabout way home, and found great flights via Japan. We’ll get to revisit some of our favourite moments in Tokyo from April, but we’re also heading more rural, for some reflective and peaceful moments in nature. It’s the perfect final stop of this wonderful year-long trip.
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